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Old 02-21-2007, 08:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Talking Braided to Mono Connection

THinking about puttin a 150 yd. topshop of some 130# on my reels...whats the best way to tie line to line with this big stuff? any preference in brand? Thanks, all help is appreciated
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It would depend on whats on the reel, you could do a uni to uni or bimini twist. All about if yoou have braid or mono on the bottom.
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Loop to Loop will be the most versatile way.

Use a piece of dacron to put a loop on the 130# mono.

Add a loop to the hollow core backing and just join the two.
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Old 02-21-2007, 11:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Tuna I use my knots for mono only.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B1LLF1SHR View Post
THinking about puttin a 150 yd. topshop of some 130# on my reels...whats the best way to tie line to line with this big stuff? any preference in brand? Thanks, all help is appreciated

Sam:

What is your braided line? Solid core specctra or Hollow core specctra or other, and what brand?

If you have hollow core specctra, I would suggest you simply slide the braid over the mono, with about 4 ft. minimum mono inside and serve and glue. This suggestion is based on the length of your top-shot. It sounds like you are keeping it on until you need to replace the mono again. If you wanted to change out your mono on a regular basis, based on fishing needs, a triple flipped loop to loop would be the suggestion then, as Capt. Art. suggested. Loop to Loop Connection :: BHP Tackle

(You may as well accept it , that you need to learn how to serve and glue once you start using Hollow core braid, or you should purchase wind-ons that way. It provides you with the best knotless solution, and keeps your interconnect at 100% strength. Knots typically derate your line strength at the junction, and that includes Bimini twists in specctra line, from what I have heard.)

If you have solid core specctra, do the loop to loop (triple twist). You will need to tie a Bimini twist knot in your main line.

Note: I don't use solid core specctra any more. The ability to create knotless connections using hollow core, with reported 100% strength has converted me. My preference is Jerry Brown HC. My interconnect options are as follows: Hollow to hollow splice, spliced loop, and a loop with double walled hollow core over the mono,serve and glue, "Chinese finger cuff interconnect", in conjunction with the specctra loop to loop linkage, and mono straight into the hollow core, serve and glue. Anything else requires a knot.

Last edited by RiskTaker; 02-21-2007 at 11:44 AM..
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Old 02-21-2007, 02:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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RT,
What type of glue is used for Hollow core to mono connection (Chinese finger cuff) and what size mono should I use for the top shot?(the 50s will be used for sword fishing and high speed trolling) Im looking at spooling up 2 50wlrsa and 2 80ws I plan on using 130# JB on all 4 with about 200 yard mono top shot. Thanks in advance
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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well, i have tiagra 50 wides with 60# momoi diamond mono on there now and want to put a topshot of 130# Jb hollow core on top. I have windons already, so in essence, i would need to connect the hc to the mono, spool it on the reel, and then attach it to the windon....whats your take on this?
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I would use 80lbs Momoi`s mono on the jb 130#hollowcore if any questions ask Tec he`ll get you in the right direction ..
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok heres the deal, Tek with probably tell you the same thing.

With JB 130 I use a topshot of 80 Momoi Diamond. I get 700yards JB and 100yards of Topshot on my 50W Tiagra.

My personal opinion about the best way to do this connection is to get the kit from Sato's Custom Tackle. The kit contains a specially designed crimper and crimps that allow you to crimp the connection between the mono and the JB (after feeding it up 5-6 feet finger cuff). You simply slide the crimp on, feed the line into the mono, slide the crimp down and crimp it twice. it is SOO easy and MUCH easier and more effective than serving. The connection is TINY you'll barely even see it. It also comes with a special glue that is made for this type of application unlike the Pink label stuff.


Sato's Custom Tackle Windon Crimp Kit - Saltwater Fishing Tackle

So basically you have a connection that is double overkill. It takes about 5 minutes too and you can cary the little kit (plano box) anywhere. I kept that and a spool of 80 on the boat and changed out a topshot in the cockpit while trolling in 5ft seas. I highly recommend it and you can get it from Tek, who can customize the kit to your needs. Its also great at making windons. worth every penny
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Old 02-21-2007, 11:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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YOU GOT SERVED!!!

man i really need to get one of those kits
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Old 02-22-2007, 12:47 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The Sato kit is good and it does work. I have used these crimps for almost 2 years. It's a nice fast way to do your own.
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I can't imagine putting a metal crimp in the middle of the line on my reel.

The thought of the crimp abrading the line above and below it would give me nightmares.

I would much rather use chinese finger cuffs that are smooth and will not cut, nick or abrade my line during a fight with heavy drag on a big fish.

With a loop to loop connection you can switch out top shots or wind-on leaders or anything else while underway.

Ditto for glue that some say attacks the mono over time.

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Old 02-22-2007, 10:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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That's a realistic concern Catp Art. But after all the testing and real life experiences for 1000's of hardcore anglers... it's a proven system that works with little failure. The only time there has been a failure to my knowledge is when the Tuna bite is hot and someone quickly crimps the serve and the mono slides out. Upon inspection of the failure, it was found that in the rush, these very few anglers had forgotten to actually compress the crimp fully or forgot to actually crimp the connection

That's why having your windons and topshot premade (and tested) is a good idea.

Usually the system is changed out after catching a few big fish but some have used the same connection for over 6 months.

Jerry Brown Adhesive will not hurt the mono or spectra so there's no need to be concerned there.

But your point of a smooth transition is correct and for those making professional windons and topshots... these are as good as it gets. I have seen some of the biggest servers by anglers that are attempting to build them themselves. The crimp system is as small a 'serve' as anything and this is why the system if VERY attractive to so many anglers. It's a low profile, no hassle proven system that is super easy for the first time builder of windons and topshots.

There is at least one Long Range boat out of San Diego that builds their windons and topshots for sale using the Sato crimps. Now that's saying something when professional big game windon builders can give their blessing IMO.

-Tek
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Old 02-23-2007, 10:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Tek,

The boat in question also had nine (9) crimp failures on an Izorline sponsored trip last year, as reported live on Let's Talk Hookup radio show by the captain. That was ONE TRIP! I personally have seen a crimp failure on a 200lb+ YFT by an experienced angler, right at the boat. There have been numerous reports over the years, usually passed off as angler error, but with such a critical margin for error, one has to say wait a minute, I'm going to spend $179 on a kit that requires each connecion to be perfect, otherwise I could lose the fish of a lifetime? No thanks, not for me. Served connections have been around for a lot longer than those tiny crimps and with good reason; THEY WORK! And not becuse I happen to sell served products. Take that out of the equation and just take the time to research the reliability of all the methods. So if you've never been on a long range trip, you should try one some time.

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Old 02-23-2007, 10:41 AM   #14 (permalink)
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We build all our windons and topshot's on the boat. None using crimps. All our braid is hollow core, we insert the mono inside the braid and have it exit and return back into the braid about every foot and whip the end with 3 inches of waxed line, never had one fail this year. We just started this year making our own about 150 of them. The bad thing is I can't blame anyone for it if it fails, but I know it's done the way I want them....


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Old 02-23-2007, 12:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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what is a served connection?
is that the chinese thing where you tie 2 overhands?
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Old 02-23-2007, 12:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Tek and Basil:

Thanks for the info.

By the way, Sea-Ya, do you protect the mono exit points every foot or so?

How do you prevent the exposed portion of mono and braid from getting caught on a snag and separating the splice?

I much prefer to have a long length of mono inside the braid with no transitions so that the chineese finger can grab along the entire length of the mono as it stretches. By having only a foot of grab, each acts as a separate cuff, but is not as strong as one long one.
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Old 02-23-2007, 12:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. Art View Post
I much prefer to have a long length of mono inside the braid with no transitions so that the chineese finger can grab along the entire length of the mono as it stretches.

I agree & have been doing it like that for years. NEVER fails.
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Old 02-23-2007, 12:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Exactly right Art. A single 3 foot insert into your hollow spectra is plenty. Serving is the method of tieing half hitches of rigging floss or whipping some other serving material over the spectra-to-mono entry point. Once you get a few basic, inexpensive tools, your serve will cost nickels, compared to over a dollar apiece for those tiny crimps, plus the $179 for the kit, and oh by the way they now recommend two crimps on each leader to prevent failures.
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Old 02-23-2007, 02:58 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I guess I should have expplained in detail. We bring it in and out due to we run 8ft plus on topshots and trying to feed 8ft of mono can be hectic we the needle comes off and you have to start over. I am not saying it is perfect, but it works and never had one chafe or snag. We fished 30lb tackle in Venezuela and never had one pull out and you see the topshot go out quick on a blue down there. As far as windons usually about 4 ft of mono inside the braid without coming outside of it. I guess you use what you do till you see something bad then get another idea from someone else or see the problem for yourself. I never used the crimps so I can't say pro or con. Just letting you know what we do..


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Old 02-23-2007, 06:53 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basil View Post
Tek,

The boat in question also had nine (9) crimp failures on an Izorline sponsored trip last year, as reported live on Let's Talk Hookup radio show by the captain. That was ONE TRIP! I personally have seen a crimp failure on a 200lb+ YFT by an experienced angler, right at the boat. There have been numerous reports over the years, usually passed off as angler error, but with such a critical margin for error, one has to say wait a minute, I'm going to spend $179 on a kit that requires each connecion to be perfect, otherwise I could lose the fish of a lifetime? No thanks, not for me. Served connections have been around for a lot longer than those tiny crimps and with good reason; THEY WORK! And not becuse I happen to sell served products. Take that out of the equation and just take the time to research the reliability of all the methods. So if you've never been on a long range trip, you should try one some time.

Basil Pappas
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Thanks for the info Basil. I have heard your wind ons are some of the best. Cool website as well.

Johnny
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