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Deep Dropping Discussion of Deep Drop Fishing. (Greater than 200ft)

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Old 03-25-2008, 09:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
iriesoul
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Default Deep drop rigs...Whats everyone like?

I have made several deep drop rigs by looking at others. Just wondering what everyones preference was.... Inline crimp style swivles Vs 3 ways.... Anyone think those little leads on the rigs help at all when you have a 10lb weight at the other end? or the crimp glow covers or the glow beads?
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Old 03-26-2008, 05:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by iriesoul View Post
I have made several deep drop rigs by looking at others. Just wondering what everyones preference was.... Inline crimp style swivles Vs 3 ways.... Anyone think those little leads on the rigs help at all when you have a 10lb weight at the other end? or the crimp glow covers or the glow beads?
I use all the methods ... there`s no wrong way !
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Old 03-26-2008, 05:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i crimp multiple snap swivels in place on the main line. then i make up a bunch of rigs with a loop crimped on 1 side and a hook crimped on the other. i make bunches of them with different size hooks. this way you can quickly change hook sizes or if the hook gets bit off can easily fix it!!!!

and 3 ways are garbage unless u get the 3 ways that are 2 barrel swivels!!!!!
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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and 3 ways are garbage unless u get the 3 ways that are 2 barrel swivels!!!!![/quote]




never had problems with 3ways.. use the largest I found #5
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Old 03-27-2008, 02:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Willi - there's the right way, the wrong way and then the Catch-All way.

I prefer the three-hook chicken rig. Consists of 300 lb mono, inline swivels, mono is crimped, hooks are Mustad bigass circle hooks 14/0, standoff glow tubes at the hooks, a crimped metal thimble at the top of the rig.

If I am tilefishing, there is a 5 lb stick lead at the top with the snap swivel and an 8 lb stick lead at the bottom of the rig.

If I am bottomfishing in structure where I might get rocked up, I have a 80 lb mono breakaway line spliced onto the bottom of the 300 lb mono and I use only a 4-5 lb stick lead.

An inexpensive self-contained acorn light strobe always goes onto the snap swivel at the top.

All this shit seems to work well for me. It's relatively idiot proof.

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Old 04-12-2008, 06:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I use 3 way swivels and wont go back to the inline. Im using 10 hook stringers and without the swivels, I get terrible line twist on the way up. I also have a 50 pound leader for the weight with a 300 pound mono for the stringer itself..
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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3 ways in line cut the leader when you put heavy drag on a big fish and the swivel thing seems awful expensive to me 1 shark and theres an extra $10 and my kinda fishing
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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my kind of Get-Er-Done.

Shit! forgot I don't like in line swivels.

Cheers, SL,

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Old 04-12-2008, 11:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Do it like a commercial snapper rig. Take 300# mono and thread onto it in this order: { crimp, bead, barrel swivel, bead, crimp } and repeat. The crimp should be a single sleeve that will just slide over the 300# main. It will not be doubled over back through the sleeve. The sleeve is just a stopper for the bead, which is a stopper for the barrel swivel and lets it spin around the main to avoid line twist. You can make your leaders any way you wish to attach to the barrel swivel. Size it according to what you're fishing. At the bottom of the rig goes a large snap swivel to attach a window weight. At the top is a thimble through which a snap swivel from the mainline will be attached. Your beads can glow, should you wish to buy that kind.

When commercial snapper fishing, you've got 15-30 of the above-mentioned setups on the line.
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Old 04-12-2008, 11:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Boboe,that was one of the best ideas. I had never heard of doing it that way.Great idea.Thanks

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Old 04-13-2008, 12:47 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Boboe,that was one of the best ideas. I had never heard of doing it that way.Great idea.Thanks
I didn't invent it, I've just used it plenty. It's pretty standard for commercial fishing. It's also called "rat gear."
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Boboe - I like yer ideer too! It seems like the only tackle stores who carry the inlines are places that cater to offshore & deepdrop guys like us; Finest Kind, Grand Slam, etc. Your average tackle store just doesn't bother to carry them. But pretty much every store carries the stuff you listed. Great ideer!

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Old 04-15-2008, 09:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Call me crazy... but I'd rather lose a fish than lose mainline. When your rig is stronger than your mainline, it's the mainline that's gonna separate, often at the point of most friction... the rod guides. So, here's my preferred rig:

I use 80lb spectra mainline. 250-300lb leader with inline swivels. 40lb break-away mono to a 5 or 7lb sash weight at the bottom. 60lb branch leaders to appropriately sized circle hooks. Everything crimped. For abrasion resistance on the 60lb branches, I use some sort of stiff, small-diameter tubing. (even stirring straws will work) For the light at the top, I use a thick rubber band to attach it to the mainline swivel.

If the weight snags, the 40lb will snap releasing the rest of the rig. If a hook snags, the 60lb branch will snap since it's less than the mainline. Either way, you'll get most or all of your rig back, including the light at the top of the rig. And in the rare event that the light snags, the rubber band will snap.

Moral of the story: It's easier and cheaper to replace parts of the rig than it is to replace 300+ yards of mainline.
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:17 AM   #14 (permalink)
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i am right there with buck on this one. i even use lighter wire hooks incase i hook a verry large grouper on the hope that the hook will straighten out. i do not want to eat a grouper much over twenty pounds so i do not want to kill her. i would rather have her making more small groupers for me to eat.
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