Help wiring battery switches?

[ELECTRIC1]

I have a twin engine center console (225hp), I currently have 1 battery switch with two group 27 odyssey batt's. I want to add a house battery and a charger. Does anyone have a schematic for this or any input? Thanx in advance for your help.

[DonK]

Pick up another '1-off-2' switch and a parallel relay.

Dedicate each of your existing batteries to each motor. Put the parallel relay in between them and a momentary toggle switch on the console; this way each engine batt can boost the other if one runs down.

add your house battery and put selector switches between the house batt and each of the engine batteries. Run all your accessories off the house.

Ensure that you always maintain parallel wiring: (+) to (+) and (-) to (-); otherwise you are putting them in series and creating 24v or 36v. The new motors and electronics don't play nice when you zap 'em with a little extra juice!

Another tip I have heard, especially with newer engines, is never switch them while the engines are running. Too much of a risk to blow out engine computers and sensors/

[ELECTRIC1]

Thanks for the info DONK but how would I be able to incorporate a 2 bank charger and do i use the relay instead of an isolator? Thanks agian

[jvtuna]

Best product for you is BEP switching. You can charge 2,3,4 or more batterys thru sensing relays. House bat. and starting bat are seperate. Link to this site for more info. Battery Switches-Manual - BEP Marine
If you need more info go to classic mako.com we have members that are more than happy to assist you and you don't have to own a mako. Hope this helps,Jeff

[DonK]

Originally Posted by ELECTRIC1

Thanks for the info DONK but how would I be able to incorporate a 2 bank charger and do i use the relay instead of an isolator? Thanks agian

Adding a charger, just like anything else on a boat, will complicate and exponentially increase the cost!

You have one of two options:
1) get a new more expensive multibank charger or auto sensing isolator and wire all the batteries to it;

2) keep your 2 banker on the engine batteries, and another single charger for the house. If you run a lot of 12v at the dock when plugged in to shorepower, I would prefer to have a dedicated to charger to handle that load, and allow the engine bank to charge up on it's own.

[ELECTRIC1]

Thanks again, I am going to opt for the first option. I think it will be a cleaner installation. Donk do you know where I can find a schematic or any drawing that would resemble my situation?

[jvtuna]

You do know when you run the batterys in the both position if one battery goes bad it will draw the other one down. The BEP system is not that expensive. The wiring diagrams are onthe site. Go to battery managment then choose 715v unit go to more info there you will see wiring diagrams.Heres the link http://www.bep.co.nz/Single-Engine%2...-180-1462.html

[DonK]

Marine Battery Systems - Part 2

I think diagram 'F' is what you are doing; but you would be using an isolator for the alternators plus a charger where the isolator is shown. (unless there is a combination unit out now?)

[ELECTRIC1]

Alright, that will do it! I found an easy way out on the bep web site. It's a pre wired cluster of switches and acr's. Twin Outboards, Three Battery Banks - Clusters - BEP Marine

[DonK]

Originally Posted by ELECTRIC1

Alright, that will do it! I found an easy way out on the bep web site. It's a pre wired cluster of switches and acr's. Twin Outboards, Three Battery Banks - Clusters - BEP Marine

Let me know how this works for you...my curiosity is piqued...

Does the output from the alternators simply go back into (+) on the isolator?

[ELECTRIC1]

Just got the ride back from a fresh awlgrip job tonight, got home and yanked both batt's and the switch. Hopefully I can get the parts by the weekend and I'll try to get it done. I asked my buddy at Midnight Express and he agreed on the plan and if you have ever seen there work you know that they don't mess around! I am basically rewiring the entire boat now, I am sure you know the snowball effect! Thank you for your info and I will keep you posted. I plan on being on the water in two weeks

[ELECTRIC1]

Thanks JV, that link did not work but after finding there site I found the system that I am going to use. Seems like they make som good stuff, have you ever used there products before?

[jvtuna]

Yes, They are the top of the line. If you go to classic mako .com you can see a complete install. Look under the electronics part of the Forum page. Look under questions for Wart. He's are boat guru when it comes to that stuff. Any other way I can assist just let me know. Jeff.

[ELECTRIC1]

Well I ended up just using 3 battery switches and 2 acr's and it seems to do the trick. I thought I would post some pix of my project as it has went from a simple paint job to replacing every nut and bolt (except the motors). I moved the batt's from the transom to the console, added a group 31 odyssey house batt, replaced the #6!!! that used to go to the motors w/ #2, replaced all rod holders and added a few, replaced the cleats w/ flush mount, new raymarine elect w/ 1000W in hull ducer, replaced every light on the boat w/ LED, new dash, switch panel and guages on the way, and am adding 20 gallons of freshwater...Wow it seems like alot when I think about it! Thanks for the oppinions and info










I will post some pix when I am done of the whole thing. Especially the paint job those pix dont do it justice. That was sprayed w/ 3 coats of 545 epoxy primer and 4 coats of blue tone white Awlgrip. Definately needs a good cleaning job after the beating we gave it doing all of the work.