Deep_sea_gull:
The answers are all very clearly stated on the many posts on this forum: you just need to be curious and venture beyond the current topics.
But for bobber tie-offs, for weight tie-offs and for valuable electrolume tie-offs, consider wrapping your mainline, whether it be, super-filament or mono, with 70 lb. waxline captive loops. (Ideally, your rod will have all wind-on roller guides, otherwise, you may want to test ONE first.)
All of my rods/lines that is, have at least 5 locations of captive loop waxline tie-off locations. This facilitates the attachment of: #1, a valuable electrolume
light that you do not want to lose, then #2 follows, a place to attach a heavy weight - consider using a heavy rubber band connected to a lead weight, and #3, #4 and #5, etc. are available as a predefined locations to attach some form of bobber, swordfishing size. These are not absolute requirements because you can make a reasonably strong attachment point anywhere along your line with a few wraps of a rubber band and your attachment. But the predefined locations will serve you well, once you need to get into a rhythmn to get things done correctly and repeatedly and quickly. Copper wire may be a little more abrasive: oh, back to the waxline. This acts as a chafe guard to your mainline if you do it properly...
(You know, now that it is worded this way... I just wonder why that fish snapped Capt. Dean Panos' line from one of his reports a while back. Certainly a mono nick can occur from any number of reasons. But imagine a fairly strong tug from copper wire, shielded or otherwise, being yanked off of an "un-chafe-guarded" line. A Nick is a definite possibility: only a thought.)
Oh, how do you make the captive waxlines loops, you ask?
Grab about a 4 ft. length of 70 lb. waxline, start with an initial over hand knot with a few inches of spare line on the trailing end. Start making half hitches towards the hook-end of the main line. Try to get into a repeatable pattern as soon as you understand the build-up process. Try to make each half-hitch very tight: it may slip at first but if you bend the mainline enough it will not slip. After about 10 half hitches, the waxline should be firmly attached without slippage. Continue making half-hitches, and keep them tight, until you have about an inch to an inch and a half of waxline tightly wrapped around the mainline. (A shiny rotating ridge around the mainline will indicate that you did it consistently and tightly). Your chafe guard is now in place. Time to build the captive loop: continuing on with the waxline, wrap back to the starting point with a loop and leave a small loop, maybe you can fit 2 fingers inside this loop, tie another half hitch ahead of the beginning first half hitch where you first started out, to the mainline, start a little loose then pull in tighter until the loop is about right. Do about 3 tight hitches, wrap back inside the loop to make another half-hitch that will tightly bind your last knot to the loose loop. At this point, you will reinforce your single thread loop by wrapping, round and round, the free end around the loop until you reach back to the othe side. You can pull these wraps tight to the point that they twist or until they are nice and snug, or still remain a little loose. The amount of tension and the number of wraps will allow some latitude on how tight the initial 2-finger loop has tightened up to the mainline. ( Ideally, you want this loop to be nearly snug to the mainline but loose enough to easily pull a gap but not so loose to leave a bow loop standing-out all the time. (Practice with a few and you will understand exactly what these words are saying.) Once you have finished the round-a-bout and you are dizzy to get done, tie another 3 half hitches around the mainline, then wrap another hitch around the loop portion, then one more hitch on the loop. Cut the line with cutting-pliers about 1/2 inch away. Cut the other loose end to about the same length: spark the lighter and melt the loose wax-line strands until they are burning or slowly melting to the base of the wax line bundle. Extinguish, and press the molten tip to flatten it a bit to avoid an untie situation.
Sorry about the long-winded narration: but a still-frame picture does not quite do it proper justice. And most people are not yet familiar with Camtasia software: Imagine, you could actually see a slide by silde presentation on some how-to, on your computer. Not TV, nor video but a movie with the captions you want to convey.
My time is up... tryit I hope this helps you out in some way. RT