Reeltherapy:
I suppose you are just chomping at the bit to get some new lines wet and have a swordfish at the other end.

Your line selection is one of the more controversial topics. If not controversial, many anglers prefer their own style. Indeed you have choices. So you must pick one method, or mix and match if you like. But you would probably be less scattered with your mindset if you choose to do all of your swordfishing reels by the same method. Again, your call.
I have had wire, monofilament, solid core power pro spectra, hollow core spectra, top shots, mixed spools and wind-on leaders on my reels during my fishing journey to date. At this point in time I have settled into a preferred configuration, which I will share with you.
With swordfishing definitely being in mind and IGFA compliance not, I have intentionally chosen to use 130# all Jerry Brown Hollow core spectra on my Penn 50 TW (wide) conventional reels, topped with a 50-60 ft. wind-on of 200# Momoi diamond. That's all. But I am still flexible to reconfigure. I can just as easy pop-off a wind-on and add a deep drop chicken rig, or put on a much lighter monofilament for Tuna fishing or regular bottom fishing where I would prefer for my mono to break first anyway.
This is my personal choice which I will also share with you, my reasons why. I am also content with the fact that other anglers have other preferrences such as all mono, or specctra backer with mono top-shot, etc. That is fine with me and I will not try to make people change their ways. Because others are absolutely right with their choices too. Monofilament continues to work just fine and "d"Ande, even in the year 2006. But with the advent of super-filaments, we have more choices. But if you agree with all of my reasons maybe you would see it that way too.
I chose Jerry Brown Hollow core 130# initially because of price: a 2500 yd. spool of JBHC-130 is about $275 where a 2500 yd. spool of JBHC-80 is about $475. So for economics you can spool 3 - 50 wides with 830 yds. each for about $100 each. With the other configuration you could be looking at 2 reels with 1200 yds. for about $250 each.
After some further thought, I realized, or justified, that the 130# may have actually been a better choice even if price was not such a weighting factor.
The 130# HC is more comfortable on your hands.
With 130#, you can actually, keep the drag "heat" on a fish with your 50 lb. class reel even if you have all of your line in the water. (Remember if you are fishing with 50 lb. mono, your drag setting at full may only be 22-30 lbs. , with a full spool. With an empty spool coupled with all of that line drag from the saltwater, 50 lb. line would pop somewhere, and most likely where you may have a knot or small abrasion, etc. So yes, you have a lot a drag flexibility in a 50 wide if you over-test the line. (Put it on a Shimano Tiagra LRS and you are king flexibility.)
(Do yourself a favor and don't make line decisions based upon the softmouth situation of swordfish. Yes, they do have soft mouths and I have landed at least one fish hooked in the soft spot between the lower jaw bone and several foul hooked somewhere in the skin away from the mouth. We would have lost those fish for sure if it was pulled in with a lot of drag. But many fish are jaw hooked where this rational does not apply. It is angler's choice to take that chance or not (gentle drag or lots of heat. But you have choices available to you.)
Hollow core is spliceable and may last many fishing seasons, if you like. This is probably the single most compelling reason why I have chosen: first spectra over mono and also Hollow core over solid core. Knots will typically be weaker connections than any other unblemished place in the line. Over-rating lines, to the reel class, can compensate to increase the strength of the weakest link, like the knot. But with the intended use of Hollow core, knots have been replaced with splices and terminal sliced loops. Splices are 100% with no strength degradation from the stated test. As a matter of fact splices may actually be stronger than a single strand of line since a splice is actually a section of a double piece of line, so suffice it to say 100% is the best you can get. You are now narrowed down to nicks and abrasions for weak links.
With seemless spliceability, knots are not recommended and any line defect can be clipped out of the line and perfectly spliced back to gether again. (What do you do with mono? Cut off the defect and re-tie with a knot. Or if that is unacceptable to a particular person, one may respool with fresh mono. To save money there, you may just replace a top shot to replace a shorter piece. In that case what would you have underneath a top shot? Could be some spectra line to pack on a little more capacity. Possibly solid core, or even hollow core. But here we are back to something other than mono again. Or you have accepted the knot(s) as a weaker link in a long line.
Thinness of the line is also a consideration. You have less drag in the water. Good for some deeper bottom fishing or great for electric reels for deep drop. But that is a different subject since I am focusing on hand crank 50 wides for general trolling, bottom and drift fishing.
Lack of stretch - the spectra lines may only stretch about 3% making them ideal for fishing sensitivity or yanking a fish from structure on the bottom. If you insist on having stretch, you can most likely accomodate that with a suitable wind-on leader or a top shot. Generally monofilament may stretch up to 50%. So if you had a 100 ft. top shot you could get up to a maximum of 50 ft. of stretch. To me, if you need stretch it would be nice to know how much is enough stretch. Certainly
edit - had to stop and get business done and send off message, as is, late in day. So pretty much there you have it. Those are my reasons for using JBHC 130# and yes the color choice I have picked is Hi-Viz Gold too.
Good luck Mon. >----^-.---- If you don't catch one here maybe
the herd's down by Kingston by now.
Jerry - Whats the word from the King's town?