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RiskTaker · 01-31-2006, 07:14 AM

FishbyNite:

Since the JBHC is not waxed you could color your depth mark with a marker like Basil mentioned. That is easiest. But you must visually see them.

Another thing that I have done, which is quite a bit more work is to tie depth marks. I used Jerry Brown solid core (30 lb.) white over my gold mainline. I put marks every 50ft. then at each 100 ft. mark. I would do repeat marks for the hundreds indicator. 1 mark at 100, 2 marks at 200 and I went out to 400 ft. , separated about 9-12 in. apart. My last mark was 450. These marks look just like a serve tie. The only difference is that I would start out my first half hitches by pushing the thread through the mainline braid. It physically cannot slip that way. These marks are about an inch wide. And a touch of JB glue on each end prevents the marks from untying.

The benefit of doing these is that you can pay out line and always know where you are at, even with your eyes closed.

These marks will also pass through an unlatched Line Counter if you ever should need to do that. Wax line marks are too bulky for me to have so many. I you always hang a weight with a LL clip at one spot then I would probably use waxline for that one place.

One other comment about the in-line splices. If you use the standard splicing needle, you may have a 4 inch splice overall. Personally, I do a bigger splice. Mine is about a foot overall. This is overkill, but I trust it. I think that a six inch splice is probably a safe bet. (I was showing some fishing buddies a sample splice that I made into a circular piece when I first started with this stuff and it was new to me. We were playing with it, pulling it tight. Wow. But, One time I pulled and it slipped apart with no resistance at all. (Don't let this example give the JB a bad wrap: my splice was only about 2 inches long which is shorter than it is supposed to be. But that made me realize it could possibly slip if the finger trap was not snugged up or long enough. So once I started using wire to make splices, it was easy to make a 12 inch splice. So I just left it at that.

01-31-2006, 07:14 AM	#10 (permalink)
RiskTaker Grander Join Date: May 2004 Location: Pompano Beach, Florida, USA Boat: Porgee Rock Best Catch: A Snapper Occupation: A Varied and Wandering course Posts: 2,227	Line marks and in-line splices FishbyNite: Since the JBHC is not waxed you could color your depth mark with a marker like Basil mentioned. That is easiest. But you must visually see them. Another thing that I have done, which is quite a bit more work is to tie depth marks. I used Jerry Brown solid core (30 lb.) white over my gold mainline. I put marks every 50ft. then at each 100 ft. mark. I would do repeat marks for the hundreds indicator. 1 mark at 100, 2 marks at 200 and I went out to 400 ft. , separated about 9-12 in. apart. My last mark was 450. These marks look just like a serve tie. The only difference is that I would start out my first half hitches by pushing the thread through the mainline braid. It physically cannot slip that way. These marks are about an inch wide. And a touch of JB glue on each end prevents the marks from untying. The benefit of doing these is that you can pay out line and always know where you are at, even with your eyes closed. These marks will also pass through an unlatched Line Counter if you ever should need to do that. Wax line marks are too bulky for me to have so many. I you always hang a weight with a LL clip at one spot then I would probably use waxline for that one place. One other comment about the in-line splices. If you use the standard splicing needle, you may have a 4 inch splice overall. Personally, I do a bigger splice. Mine is about a foot overall. This is overkill, but I trust it. I think that a six inch splice is probably a safe bet. (I was showing some fishing buddies a sample splice that I made into a circular piece when I first started with this stuff and it was new to me. We were playing with it, pulling it tight. Wow. But, One time I pulled and it slipped apart with no resistance at all. (Don't let this example give the JB a bad wrap: my splice was only about 2 inches long which is shorter than it is supposed to be. But that made me realize it could possibly slip if the finger trap was not snugged up or long enough. So once I started using wire to make splices, it was easy to make a 12 inch splice. So I just left it at that.